24-DAY "LEISURE TOUR" OF EUROPE -- Summer 1997
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Tuesday, May 20, 1997:
My husband George and I left Winkie Poo with my Mom, and drove to El Paso, flew to Dallas without much hassle, then I had non-stop air sickness on the way to LONDON Gatwick airport.
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Wednesday, May 21:
Arrived 9 AM, but it took about two hours to get to our hotel, the London Metropole -- a very nice, first class place. Generally, all the hotels were very nice, and GRAND EUROPEAN TOURS (GET) does a great job with an excellent guide (Peter Sapien). There are some drawbacks to group travel, but GET planned the trip well and handled baggage, reservations, etc., so it is easier. Probably it's cheaper to go this way, too, as otherwise the hotels would be just too much. The best part of coach travel is, of course, the scenery, something which one would miss with flying or via train. Some of the scenery is spectacular and very beautiful. Our companions, 39 others, were all nice people and some were quite interesting. Mostly they were older people, and I was by far the youngest.
We went on our own by Underground to the TOWER OF LONDON, where we saw the Crown Jewels, the famous chopping block of kings, queens, and prisoners, and an armory (weaponry) museum. We met the group at cocktails that evening, then found a typical pub where we ate steak and kidney pie (yuk) and drank a pint of bitter.
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Thursday, May 22:
Our group bussed around seeing the sights: BIG BEN, PARLIAMENT HOUSES, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, and BUCKINGHAM PALACE while the guard was changing. On our own we lunched at another pub and did the BRITISH MUSEUM. I saw a 5000 year old mummy, touched the ROSETTA STONE, and enjoyed seeing other fascinating artifacts. That night we took the Underground to Haymarket Theater and saw Oscar Wilde's Lady Windermere's Fan.
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Friday, May 23:
Bussed to DOVER and took a hovercraft to CALAIS -- fast and cramped and couldn't see anything. We motored through BELGIUM, past DUNKIRK, OOSTEND, BRUGES, and ANTWERP to our destination at AMSTERDAM, where we stayed at the Novotel, another nice hotel. Had a group dinner of chicken in patties and lamb stew, then back to our room.
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Saturday, May 24:
Toured Amsterdam with our group, seeing some countryside, and then by boat around town. We dropped off at the REIKSMUSEUM to see Rembrants, Halls, Van Dykes and others, then went to the VAN GOGH MUSEUM, which was quite different. It was interesting walking through chronologically and noticing how Van Gogh's style changed with time. Later we went downtown by tram to dine, see the palace, and wander about in the "Windows" district, where we saw some very pretty and exotic looking women, wearing the briefest clothing, standing inside large glass panes. I pointed out to my handsome husband that some of them winked and beckoned at him, but he said he didn't notice.
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Sunday, May 25:
Up early to bus past ARNHEIM (A Bridge Too Far), UTRECHT, then to COLOGNE, GERMANY. The cathedral is impressive and we stayed for most of a church service there. We took a CRUISE DOWN THE RHINE RIVER for an hour or two, seeing old castles and charming villages. Spent the night in MAINZ and walked along the Rhine after dinner.
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Monday, May 26:
Motored to HEIDELBERG, saw the old Schloss with monstrous wine casks, drove through THE BLACK FOREST, and saw a lovely waterfall at SCHAFF-HAUSEN. Crossed the border into SWITZERLAND and traveled down to LUCERNE (LUZERN). All this was spectacular scenery, and we were glad we traveled by bus. Hotel Europa was very nice, and walking along the shores of the lake after dinner was delightful.
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Tuesday, May 27:
Went with the group to see the "LION OF LUCERNE", a great statue of a lion cut in a cliff, memorializing the Swiss Guard that died to the last man defending Louis XVI during the Revolution. Touching, as the lion's expression was so sorrowful. Then up a funicular to the top of a mountain (STANSERHORN) where we had a great panorama of the SWISS ALPS, still covered with snow. It was wonderful! George and I hiked up to the top for a better view. We had a group dinner with Swiss yodeling and music, then Gee and Tree saw a number of strip tease artists do their thing at the Casino. One was a pretty girl from Romania, Rafaelle, who visited with us at our table for awhile. She seemed very friendly.
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Wednesday, May 28:
Motored through LIECHTENSTEIN into GERMANY and marveled at MAD KING LUDWIG II's ornate and fanciful castle at NEUSWANSTEIN. Didn't get to go inside, though -- can't do everything you want on these tours. On to MUNICH where George and I walked through the Marienplatz, saw a few statues of Saint George with the conquered dragon, and had dinner and beer at the HOFFBRAUHAUS (where Hitler got started); the place is humongous, noisy, and so much fun! That's what one does in Munich. Walking back to the hotel along the trash-strewn streets, in the darkness we followed our way toward beautiful violins and other musical instruments. We came upon musicians playing Beethoven in the echoing walled avenues -- how precious to stand holding hands with your loved one with such awesome music in another country! Our hotel, the Sol Inn Hotel there was good, with down futons instead of sheets and blankets.
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Thursday, May 29:
Drove to SALZBURG and saw the home where Mozart was born. Also the cathedral where his nemesis, the Archbishop, hung out. Then on to VIENNA where we stayed at the Park Hotel SCHONBRUNN, close to the palace of that name. The latter was splendid, a smaller Versailles, with all the gorgeous ceilings and tapestries, plus elegant furnishings of the period. Attended a Mozart and Strauss concert in the same room where Mozart played when he was 6 -- it was absolutely delightful! The music and performance from the hearts of the musicians brought tears of happiness to my eyes! A great baritone and a fine soprano filled out the operatic parts, while a couple did ballet numbers where appropriate.
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Friday, May 30:
Toured VIENNA and the SCHONBRUNN PALACE. Schonbrunn Schloss has 1000 rooms and had 2000 servants, grooms, etc. to care for it all at one time, under Marie-Theresa, the great empress, and her son, Joseph II, who was a good man, though he gave Mozart some headaches at times. Lots of pictures and statues of Franz Joseph, Emperor 1878-1918. After a light lunch (all these beer and sandwich lunches cost about $10 each person) we had "Sachertortes" at the Sacher Hotel downtown. They are just a chocolate layer cake with whipped cream, and in spite of the latter, the ones we had were rather dry. Between windy rain showers, we walked the palace gardens. A bit of shopping, a light dinner, and another Mozart and Strauss concert on our own in the Palace -- nowhere near as good as the prior night's entertainment..
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Saturday, May 31:
We celebrated our 14th month anniversary driving through beautiful mountains on the way to VENICE. We clearly saw SLOVENIAN snow-covered mountains just south of the highway. In fact, we were not far from Hungary, too. Many tunnels through the mountains, allowing a lot of smooching in the dark. Venice was still there, and the tide was not high so we could feed the pigeons in PIAZZA SAN MARCO, which made us feel like St. Frances of Assissi. Hotel Antony was OK, but it was on the mainland, so we couldn't just wander around but had to go with the group by bus and boat. We drank some San Bucca (like anisette) and grappa (like raw rubbing alcohol) in the hotel disco, danced, and were joined by about 16 Japanese young people who did their disco thing with us.
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Sunday, June 1:
By bus and boat to Piazza San Marco, and an elegant glass factory where George bought me some earrings. Most things were quite expensive, though beautiful. Lunch on the quay alongside the RIALTO BRIDGE. One of the highlights of the entire tour was the DOGE'S PALACE, which was built on piers in the swamp, supporting for hundreds of years this massive building of marble and statues, 3 story tall ceilings all painted so elaborately one wouldn't believe the beauty unless one saw it themself. It also had a wonderful armory, on the way to the "BRIDGE OF SIGHS." The other magnificent highlight of the trip was just next door to the Doge, the SAN MARCO CATHEDRAL, where the walls and towering ceilings of the sanctuary are covered with tiny mosaics, mostly made of gold leaf sandwiched in glass, surpassing even the mosaics we had seen in the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. We saw the four life-size horses that were stolen from Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade, at the cathedral. That night we dined with the group and had a good dinner.
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Monday, June 2:
We left Venice, passing near Padua and Bologna, to ASSISSI where St. Frances had lived, taught, and was buried. The church was decorated with frescoes by Giotto and Cimabuie, among the early greats of the Italian Renaissance. Then on through scenic countryside to ROME, the Eternal City! The Tiber was swollen and muddy with rains. We stayed at the Hotel Holiday San Pedro, quite a way out but they had a shuttle bus that got us downtown. We savored a delicious dinner at a trattoria with a fellow tour couple, and visited the TREVI FOUNTAIN and the SPANISH STEPS. On our return we saw St. Peter's grandly illuminated.
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Tuesday, June 3:
Our group toured SAINT PETER'S BASILICA where I was so touched by Michaelangelo's "PIETA." St. Peter's is the largest (and grandest) church in the world! In the massive indoor pillars which support the vast dome were the souvenirs of St. Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, brought back from the Holy Land in about 320 AD: a piece of the True Cross, Veronica's veil, Longenus' spear, and the skull of St. Andrew.
We then ventured into another era, and entered the COLISEUM, and traipsed on our own through the PALATINE and the old Roman Forum, recounting as we went the story of the last days of the Roman Republic. We walked past Victor Emanuel's massive monument, an impressive "wedding cake" sort of extravaganza, to the PANTHEON. Then we walked to the CASTLE SAN ANGELO (HADRIAN'S TOMB) where we climbed to the top and had a fine view of Rome. Tired after so much walking, we ate at an outdoor restaurant, and then returned to the hotel.
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Wednesday, June 4:
George and I spent hours at the SISTINE CHAPEL and the VATICAN MUSEUM. One of the other impressive highlight of the entire trip for me was a long hall in the museum, hand painted with humongeous maps detailing different battles of European history. Tired and foot-sore after all day on our feet, and with Gee having a cold, we bought some Spumanti, cheese and chips, which we took back to eat by the pool at the hotel. We had seen so much in these three days; the Borghese Gallery was closed which was a disappointment.
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Thursday, June 5:
We drove through scenic country, seeing a number of old walled villages on the hills as we passed, arriving in FLORENCE (Firenze). Saw the Cathedral, the Baptistry with the "DOORS OF PARADISE" by Ghiberti, the PIAZZA DE LA SIGNORINI with the great statues of Neptune and Michaelangelo's David (a copy) and other statuary in and about the loggia. Then I shopped for a leather purse for my Mom, visiting 20 shops before I found just the right one. On the PONTE VECCHIO, George bought me a bracelet of leather with a gold plated "M" on it, and I bought myself an outstanding garnet ring made with 18 carat gold. We were staying at the Hotel Mediterranne, right on the Arno. We swiftly walked back to it in the pouring rain, stopping briefly to see the SANTA CROCE CHURCH. Another group dinner with a congenial crowd.
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Friday, June 6:
A scenic drive from Florence, past Genoa and Portofino to NICE, FRANCE. We went through over 50 tunnels, so many that we had to hold a moratorium on kissing in each. After a not-so-special group dinner, we drove into MONTE CARLO, saw the Grand Casino and a lesser one where my honey bunny won 20 francs in the slots, from a 2 franc investment, and quit. Back to Nice for the night.
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Saturday, June 7:
Nice is nice. We walked to the flower market and the adjacent food market, overflowing with fresh spices and fruits, and fish and meats. Then we strolled along the beach where we lunched on, appropriately, Salade Nicoise. Later we returned to the beach to swim and ogle the topless ladies of which there were dozens. George swam, and I got in part way, but the water was very cold and the rocky beach was a torture to walk on. Otherwise it was delightful. We had a fine dinner of "bifteak au poivre" and salmon at the Bistro des Artistes in the fresh market area. Two young ladies were adjacent and we talked. They were Finnish; the mother is a gynecologist, and the daughter, an absolutely gorgeous blonde, is studying film-making in Austin, Texas. We have invitations to Finland and they, to Carlsbad.
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Sunday, June 8:
Left Nice, via CANNES and other spots on the Rivera to AVIGNON, where we saw the famous bridge and sang the children's song, "Sur le pont, d'Avignon, on y danse, on y danse," etc. Got on a TRAIN DE GRAND VITESSE (TVG) and sped at up to 180 mph to PARIS. Our hotel, Sofitel de Point Sevres, was very nice, but quite a way out from the downtown areas. We took the Metro to the CHAMPS ELYSEE for dinner and to see L'ARC DE TRIOMPHE, impressively lighted at night. I was tickled to be there!
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Monday, June 9:
The group toured the city by bus and by boat on the SEINE. We went into NOTRE DAME, which is huge, and very, very old (started about 1170). Then we did the LOUVRE for four or five hours, seeing so much. I was most impressed by the many Rubens paintings he did for Marie DeMedici, making her appear beautiful and a gift from the Heavens above. We returned by Metro to the hotel, napped, then had a good meal of lamb and salads by ourselves at the hotel.
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Tuesday, June 10:
We took a tour with the group to VERSAILLES and saw where Louis Quatorze hung out. Reviewed the causes of the French Revolution -- largely price controls on the farm products, creating great shortages, and too much government. Later we toured the HOTEL DES INVALIDES to see Napoleon's tomb and review things he had done, both good and bad. The arms museum there is the best, perhaps in the world, with scores of halberds, helmets, complete suits of armor, ancient guns, swords and cannon, and displays on World Wars I and II. After resting up at the hotel, since I had caught George's cold by now, we went by Metro to the Champs Elysee for a good dinner (I had duck and George had salmon). Then we attended the show at The Lido, but it was so geared to American culture that it was a disappointment. They had the topless girls, but the themes were not Parisian, but of Las Vegas and Hollywood.
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Wednesday, June 11:
We left by train from Gare du Nord, speeding through northern France to the Calais area where the train plunged under the channel (CHUNNEL) for about forty minutes, emerging in ENGLAND. Not a very scenic ride, but with time and opportunity in the tunnel to smooch a bit. We returned to the London Metropole hotel and later had a group cocktail party at which we thanked our guide, Peter, said good-bye to our new friends and said how nice it was to meet them all. Actually, we all got along well and, though we didn't make close friends, it was pleasant. Afterwards we went back to a pub for dinner and beer. We walked the streets while George smoked his cigar, and then to bed.
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Thursday, June 12:
A more leisurely breakfast, and then several of us took a van to Gatwick Airport, a two hours drive. Long lines of overseas passengers checking bags took much time, but finally at 2 PM we took off for Dallas. A long, long day. At Dallas we changed to the plane for El Paso and we got in about 8 PM (4 AM London time). We spent the night at the Airport Hilton as we were too tired to drive all the way home. The room had a indoor hot tub which was nice.
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Friday June 13:
Had a breakfast of TACOS at JACK IN THE BOX (we were going through Mexican food withdrawal), and then drove home, picking up a very happy doggie, WINKIE-POO, from Mom's place. We were most happy to see Mom, too. We were glad to be home. All had gone well in our absence; in fact the Dow had gone up about 700 points, which helped pay for the trip!
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Aegean / 1995 / Mayan / 1997 / Europe / 1998 / Baltic / 1999