How do you know the UL symbol really means your lamp cord is safe? Do people generally buy computers from the kid up the street, who can make them "cheaper than Dell", or Dell? In a strange town, do you eat at a strange restaurant or a national chain? Pulling off the highway in Kansas City, do you stop at Joe's Garage, or Meineke? These are all examples of the value of reputation. Whether you know it or not, you are relying on the fact that it is in their best interest to make sure you get consistency at national chains. If they are recognized for good food, service, etc., then they get a reputation for quality, but if they are recognized for bad, they suffer from a reputation of low quality. Wendy's suffered a hit when the finger was found, Jack in the Box suffered when outlets in Seattle served tainted meat (1993), and that's why Johnson & Johnson took such a hard line on the
Tylenol scare.
Underwriters Laboratory is just one of many companies who earn money by offering assurance to customers that the products and the company meet some minimum standards.
Standards ProvidersUL is not the only standards provider. Consumers sometimes need to know not only that they are dealing with a reputable company, but they want to be able to compare one set of products with another, or even use products from several manufacturers together. This is such an important matter that standards have become a cottage industry unto themselves. The following is a partial list of standards providers; some of them not only write standards, but provide inspection and assurance services.
- ISO - International Standards Organization
- IEEE - Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers
- ANSI - American National Standards Institute
- EIA/TIA - Electronics Industry Association and Telecommunications IA, the people who bring you such standards as the Cat 5 and RS-232 cable and connector standards.
- IEC - International Engineering Consortium
- ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials
- UL - Underwriters Laboratories, writes standards and performs inspections
- OUKosher.org - Orthodox Union, performs inspections (the standards are thousands of years old!)
- Good Housekeeping - inspects products
- TRUSTe.org - third party certifiers for online establishments like Intuit, Apple, Allstate, Medicalert, Mercury News, etc.
- ECRI.org - ECRI (formerly the Emergency Care Research Institute) "is a nonprofit health services research agency and a Collaborating Center of the World Health Organization (WHO). It is designated as an Evidence-based Practice Center (EPC) by the U.S. Agency for Healthcare Research and Quality. ECRI's mission is to improve the safety, quality, and cost-effectiveness of healthcare. It is widely recognized as one of the world's leading independent organizations committed to advancing the quality of healthcare."
- American Forest and Paper Association (AFANDPA)
Training and 3rd party certificationBut setting standards is not the only thing you can get. You can also get third party certification and training. That is, if you want to hire an employee, how do you know he is worth what he says he is? All of the following provide a set of training standards and tests to validate their performance/skill/knowledge. Other companies provide training and even test facilities. There is literally a market in reputation.
- Microsoft
- Cisco
- Apple
- Novell
- Adobe
- RSA
- CompTIA i-Net+, RFID+, Security+, Linux+
- LPI Standard
UsersWho uses such standards? Just a few glances at the links provided above will show you that people readily make use of such standards.
Standards TheoryFor background on this topic, I heartily recommend anything Daniel Klein has to say about it. Specifically, you can look at the numerous websites to which he contributes as well as his publications. On his own
website, look under the heading "Papers on how private, voluntary practices and institutions achieve assurance and trust". Also check out his
FDAReview website, or read
Reputation, which he edited.
Government failureIf standards are so good, what is wrong with government standards? Consider this innocuous quote from
this article about organic certification:
"Currently, 'certified organic' indicates that the farming methods employed were verified by one of the approximately 40 private or state certification programs nationwide. Genetically engineered foods cannot be currently labeled as 'organic.' [emphasis added]
"Many certifiers are concerned that the proposed USDA federal regulations will make it illegal for them to uphold stricter standards than what the USDA allows. Currently, organic standards vary among certification boards. California and Oregon have tough standards, while several states such as Illinois, have vague or nonexistent standards."[emphasis added]
Suffice it to say that I think that the sweatshop solution should not involve standards set by government agencies
(more here).
Factory certification (sweatshop-free)There is a cottage industry in organizations dedicated to providing certification of sweatshop freeness. Furthermore, there is another cottage industry in being a sweatshop-free, politically correct manufacturer.
- Brown, Deardorff, and Stern (NBER 9669) point out that the Clinton Administration established the Apparel Industry Partnership (AIP) in 1996, but after they released their Fair Labor Association (FLA) standards, the Union of Needle Trades, Industrial, and Textile Employees (UNITE) complained that "…the code failed to require payment of a living wage; had weak language with respect to union rights in nondemocratic countries; and had a weak monitoring and verification system."
- Subsequently, UNITE and Students Against Sweatshops formed the United Students Against Sweatshops, and the Workers Rights Consortium (WRC). The WRC code is consistently more stringent than the FLA code; no surprise since manufacturers were invited into the FLA in the beginning. A flare-up ensued when several trade scholars (Academic Consortium on International Trade) pointed out that WRC had extorted universities into supporting its protectionist agenda, prompting a response from other academics styling themselves as Scholars Against Sweatshop Workers.
From my standpoint, that's sorta good: at least there's some healthy debate instead of a government monopoly.
Finally, those PC factories and labels that are run as "sweatshop free."
- The most prominent example of those was Aaron Feuerstein's Malden Mills, maker of Polartec. Mr. Feuerstein won widespread approval when he kept all 3,000 employees on the payroll after the mills burned down. In so doing, though, he took on so much debt and the mills became so uncompetitive that he was forced out by his creditors.
- We also have the recent example of SweatX, the brand of TeamX, a factory run by UNITE. They're out of business now.
- Finally, we have American Apparel, the favorite PC t-shirt label, and its fight to keep UNITE out of its operations. See here and here.
I think the PC factories tend to fail for two reasons: first, they are based on management's word to share the pie more equally, but that management "philosophy" may actually be marketing in sheep's clothing, and second, serving the employees is no guarantee of the long term success.
My suggestionMy suggestion is to try something nobody seems to have tried: apparel manufacturing standards. Never mind work conditions or pay, a factory that conforms to tough manufacturing standards will probably have to hire the best employees and they won't put up with low pay or bad conditions because they have skills to go somewhere better.
This month's
Reason Magazine features a debate with Milton Friedman, T.J. Rodgers, and
Whole Foods' John Mackey on corporate social responsibility and the relationship between employees, investors, customers, and community. Milton and John seem to be saying the same things, albeit with different emphasis. T. J. Rodgers, whom I regard in about the same way as Chris Hitchens and a car accident (interesting, but I can't stand to watch), didn't contribute anything substantive. The salient point in that debate with respect to this post is that it is possible to run a profitable company that people want to work for and buy from if you are committed to quality.
Here's
my point:
incentives matter. The company has to get something out of the standards, and marketing to a few dozen PC consumers and broke-but-concerned college kids just ain't gonna pay the bills. A standard that emphasizes high quality means the company can set higher price points. To pay for those, the customer has to get something out of it, and they do: higher quality. To get the higher quality, the employees need to be trained, but perhaps not nearly so much as management. The entire footwear/textile/apparel (FTA) manufacturing process from conception to design to production to sales must be improved.
The best management practice in existence today is
lean manufacturing. ISO 9001 is perhaps more widely known, but it is a documentation system; you can document a non-lean manufacturing process as well as a lean system. As far as I know, there is no lean certification system other than working with a recognized lean company, such as Toyota. That’s a de facto standard, but what I am suggesting is a
de (private)
jure standard. (I googled "lean certification", but the results were consultants pushing an initial consultation/primer as a certification program, with the possible exception of
TC2). You can win awards for your leanness after the fact, e.g. Deming and Baldwin, but that is no reliable gauge. Also, if you google "lean apparel manufacturing", you tend to get lots of references to pseudo-lean, like "just-in-time retailing". From what I can tell, JIT retailing means "software that manages your warehouse and supply chain 'better.'" It doesn't seem to have much to do with certifying suppliers or supply chains as lean in the way
Womack, Jones, and Roo describe. For example, see
this or
this. The sole exception (haha) appears to be shoe manufacturer New Balance, as described
here, courtesy of of the Lean Manufacturing Blog
here (also
here) and blogged
here.
What would those standards look like? Lean demands that you analyze your value stream and determine what processes add value, and eliminate everything else. Rework does not add value, it adds cost, and implies a need to fix problems in the development, test/prototype, and/or design stage. A lean manufacturing environment requires standardized work, consistent work practices, materials testing, and documented work practices.
A key lean principle is flow. Flow cannot exist until you understand the value stream and streamline it. Flow cannot exist until everyone is performing standardized work. Flow requires pull-driven system. Flow means no rework (and all that implies, see above).
Another lean principle is pull, meaning that the downstream processes complete their work and pull from upstream, rather than everyone working as fast as possible and piling stock everywhere. It means one piece at a time, produce what is demanded. It means that you only do one thing at a time, but you do it very quickly.
So let's pull a few things out: Eliminating rework means the designs and materials have to be carefully vetted early in the process. That's something that management has to do well. Lean should apply to every process: product development as well as manufacturing. That means standard approaches to pattern making, design testing, and integration of the factory floor and design skills. Even the lowest skilled worker gets exposed to the highest skills in the process. In the FTA industry, the best practice of which I am aware is the Spanish company
Zara. They have good products, smart marketing, high price points, but the most obvious sign of lean is the speed of product development and introduction. Zara never has to discount: the constant turnover in demand, small batches, and high integrity mean they drive their own scarcity.
Side note #1:
Eiji Toyoda started in the textile businessFlow and standardized means that the value of piecework is deterministic. It essentially wipes out the distinction between hourly wage rates and piece rates, making it easier for the employee to compare this job to another. Flow also means that the factory runs at the pace of the slowest worker, not the fastest. Since they are all doing standardized work, it means that you have to enhance the productivity of the least productive worker by training them and solving all of the problems they have with designs, rework, and other distractions. As Womack, Jones, and Roo describe it, the Japanese system leads to lots of factory-oriented training because the system is constantly undergoing improvement and it becomes very much a competitive advantage. Knowing "how Toyota does it" doesn’t in and of itself mean that you will be an asset to Nissan, because you don’t know "how Nissan does it." This therefore avoids the free rider problem that Rothstein runs into. In fact, Womack et al criticized the Japanese system because it led to too little specialization and too much identification with the company. As I recall, they said that Japanese tend to describe themselves as "Toyota employee" or "Honda employee", whereas Americans tend to describe themselves as "electrical engineer" or "mechanical engineer". There was therefore little emphasis on development as an engineer and therefore little development of those trades (Japan produces far less original and "pure science" research than the US, but far more industrial efficiency of existing products). Again, I see this as advantageous to low-skilled workers: after all, learning to be a "men's coat development team member" is likely to carry more prestige, employability, and pay than "low-skilled laborer" (their second-best alternative). Team members are likely to learn a little about design, a little about pattern-making, a little about materials, a lot about manufacturing, and a little about marketing/retailing, whereas now they learn a lot about the one small part of manufacture in which they participate. Specialization like that makes them vulnerable to shifts in industrial organization and consumer tastes.
Comments - Well-managed companies with bad employees may occasionally put out a bad product, but (a) those are usually caught before they get out the door, and (b) the "problem" is generally fixed, one way or the other.
- Badly managed companies with bad employees don't tend to stay in business long.
- Badly managed companies with good employees may stay in business for a while, but the products are always bad. Bad designs means bad execution, no matter how talented or dedicated the employees are. Look at the performance of the US Basketball team in the last Olympics; arguably, they were the best players in the tournament when compared head-to-head against any other team, but their design was badly suited to the task. Badly managed companies make products that are either too expensive to sustain market share, or so bad that they always command low prices. That’s the problem with the Rothstein approach: it is to force prices up in order to force management to solve one of its problems, but that approach doesn’t force bad management to address the main problem: itself. If prices everywhere are driven up by forcing wage hikes everywhere, as Rothstein demands, then it only provides cover for bad management everywhere, including here in the US.
The solution is to demand higher quality, not higher levels of PC. I don't know how you impress that on consumers, though. Consumers have grown cynical about apparel. As Kathleen puts it, as long as the only products available are shit, then at least give me cheap shit. Some consumers are willing to pay for slightly more expensive shit as long as it’s PC shit, but it's still shit.
Instead of "campus" activists (UNITE workers and socialists) extorting universities into feel-good solutions, we ought to demand that our universities subject the athletic apparel to an
engineering review. Get the engineering department and the business management people to get together in a Lean Activist club. Only buy good stuff from lean suppliers. Note, too, that the Rothstein approach is to insist that consumers simply give up more of their wealth out of the goodness of their hearts, whether or not they can afford it, with no compensation. There are consumers who will do that, but relying on the kindness of others and the wisdom and coercion of governments is no path to utopia. High quality goods command high prices because they are worth the extra value to the consumer. There is no transfer required because it is an equal exchange. In the marginal article, I mentioned that you would only buy something whose utility is equal to or greater than the price: most people assume it is always "equal to", but that is only true for consumers and sellers at the margin. For all other trades, the utility of the good is "greater than" the price; Marshall called this "consumer surplus". It is directly analogous to the better known and more widely maligned seller surplus, better known as the profit (the difference between the price and the cost to the seller).
Side note #2: the ILGWU established an industrial engineering department in the 1930s (from the NAS paper cited above).
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