How to Connect a PL-259 Plug to RG-213 Cable


Here's how to connect a PL-259 to RG-213.  It is much harder to describe in
words than to perform in practice.

(1) Use real coax such as manufactured by Belden.
(2) Use real connectors such as manufactured by Amphenol.  You'll quickly
see the difference.

Tools:

(1) Single edged safety razor blade
(2) Diagonal cutters and perhaps pipe pliars.
(3) Good capacity soldering iron and solder.

Instructions:

Using the long edge of the safety razor as a rough guide, measure back from
the end of the coax.  Cut a circle around the coax.  Try to cut as much of
the insulation as possible without nicking the shield.  It is not necessary
to cut all the way through the insulation.

Then from the circle, cut a line from the circle to the end of the coax.
Cut as much of the insulation as possible without nicking the shield,
shallow at the circle, then cut deeper as you reach the coax end.

Use the diagonal cutters to lift the cut insulation from the coax.  Apply
one edge of the cutters against the line cut from the circle to the end of
the coax.  If you have cut deeply enough, the insulation will easily peel
back from the end of the coax, exposing the shield.  If not, the plastic
will tear too much and the shield will be deformed.  If the latter is the
case, simply cut off the end and start over.

Use a soldering iron to tin all around the the exposed shield.  Don't apply
too much solder, the shield should look like silvered wicker.  Don't worry
about tinning the very tip of the shield (at the end of the coax), it will
be cut off during the next step.  Set aside the coax to allow it to cool
(work on the other end if you are attaching connectors to both ends of the
cable).

Notice the safety razor has two half-round slots at the outer edges.  Place
the razor flat against the coax with the sharp edge against the insulation.
Using the slot in the razor as a quick guide, measure what turns out to be
about 1/2 inch out from the insulation.  At this point, use the razor to cut
through the tinned wire shield all around.  You will have to use some effort
to get it started, a "sawing" motion sometimes helps.  Once the cut is
started, cutting around the remaining shield is easier.  Cut through the
shield and through the center plastic but take care not to nick the center
conductor.  If you have tinned the wire with too much solder, this step will
be very difficult and you may have to start over.

Remove (pull or twist) the cut shield and plastic from the end of the coax.
If all goes well, you will have exposed the center conductor and will have a
about 1/2" of a very neat "barrel" of tinned shield ready to insert into the
PL-259.  The shield should be circular if viewed from the end.

Spray the insulation in back of this end with a light shot of WD-40 or
silicon spray.  Fit  the collar of the PL-259 over the cable (oriented the
right way!), then place the end of the PL-259 body over the coax.  You
should be able to twist the PL-259 right over the insulation as if you were
attaching a nut to a threaded shaft.  The threads inside the end of the
PL-259 will bite into the insulation and provide a mechanical anchor to hold
the connecor to the cable.   Continue to thread the PL-259 connector over
the coax until you see the tinned shield through the solder holes in the
PL-259.  Continue twisting the connector over the coax until the tinned
portion of the coax is fully seated inside the connector.  You may need the
assistance of a pair of pliars.  This is also where off-band coax or
connectors can really cause a problem.  Either may not hold needed
mechanical tolerances and the connector may not fit.

Once the coax is fully inserted into the connector, apply the soldering
through the solder holes to solder the shield to the connector.  Since the
wire is pre-tinned, it is straightforward if you iron is hefty enough.
Concentrate on heating the coax shield through the holes - the connector
will take care of itself.  If you are careful (and lucky), you will end up
with a very neat filled hole of solder in each of the four soldering holes.
Make sure you don't leave a cold-solder joint.

Let the connector and coax cool, then solder the tip of the connector.  Of
course all of the center wire should have found its way inside and through
the tip.  If measured correctly (your experience will vary), the wire will
just reach the end inside the tip.  If wire extends thorugh the end, cut off
excess length before soldering.

A quick test of a PL-259 can often be made by holding the connector and
attempting to twist the cable in the connector.  If the cable rotates, many
times it means the shield is not soldered correctly to the connector body.
A connection of this kind is not good for QRP.

73 de Bill, AB6MT
ab6mt@sonic.net


    I made a lot of bumbling errors making a PL-259 solder to RG-213 
coax. I tried to do it with a 140 watt Weller Soldering Gun and that 
failed because I could not get the proper small amount of solder on the 
braid. I got my #10 wire and made a tip for my 250 watt Weller Gun and 
that WORKS :-)

    You have to be careful how you remove the braid and insulation from 
the center conductor. I had one bad because I cut off 3 of the wires in 
the center, and one one I got the center conductors bent and I don't 
know how to fix it.

    But when you do it all right and slip a PL-259 jack over the cable 
it slides in easy, you see the coper center conductor sticking just 
through the center pin and the coax plastic cover disappears into the 
connector. I learned you want to take off a little less than 1.5 inches 
of plastic cover, solder coat only about half the braid and then my 
pocket knife was best to cut the braid so you can pull that off, and 
then cut the insulation through but not through to center conductor. 
Then a small side cutter pushes the insulation apart. Then a lot of 
force pops the insulation off.

    Now this should just slide into the jack like it belongs there. You 
see the soldered braid through the little holes near the threads on the 
jack. And the center pin has the center connector sticking out. Now I 
solder in the center conductor. Then I make sure that all 5 little holes 
have a tiny bit of solder connected to the braid. Since you already 
soldered the braid this becomes a great contact in 5 places.

    When it all cools down grab the connector and twist it as hard as 
you can. If the connector twists, take it off and do it right.

kfl 100905