| Diving/Emerger
    Caddis Beadhead (Wet) A new dual purpose Diving/Emerger Caddis pattern which incorporates the two most
    successful Caddis imitations used by a multitude of Flyfishers. These patterns are
    LaFontaines Sparkle Pupa and the Nemes Soft Hackle imitations. Most Flyfishers are
    familiar with the hatch that involves the erratic dancing adult Caddis which lays it's
    eggs on the surface of the water, but the majority of Caddis species dive to the bottom of
    the stream to deposit their eggs on rocks, gravel and debris. The later is usually not
    readily apparent to the casual observer and when it resurfaces, it can easily imitate the
    emerging Caddis.
 This activity accounts
    for the reason that an essentially dry type Elk Hair Caddis may successfully be used
    subsurface. What a pleasure to have such a dual purpose pattern in your flybox and it
    gives the Flyfishing Community an ironclad out when asked which stage of the hatch they
    happen to be imitating. The pattern is a pleasure to tie and particularly eliminates the
    special knack required when tying the Sparkly Pupa envelope.  This fly is fished in the usual dead drift, down
    and across, or simply dragging in the current with an occassional twitch employed in all
    methods. An alternate method to the twitch would be lifting, then relaxing the rod tip to
    imitate the diving and emerging phases of this insect's lifestyle. Used thus far has been
    very encouraging, do don't miss out on the fun. The beadhead usually provides sufficent
    weight to get tthe fly down near the bottom of the stream.  |  | 
  
    | Materials | 
  
    | Hook | Mustad 9672, Sizes 14-16; Mustad 9671, Sizes
    12-16; Tiemco 2302, Sizes 14-16 | 
  
    | Thread | Olive 6/0, 8/0 (Match Body Color) | 
  
    | Tail | None | 
  
    | Overbody | White, Orange, Olive, or Brown Antron or Zelon | 
  
    | Body | Peacock Herl. Brown Olive, Light or Medium Olive,
    Chartreuise, Pale Morning Dun, or Grey Magic Dub | 
  
    | Rib | Fine Green Copper Wire | 
  
    | Overwing | Antron or Zelon. Colors as specified in Overbody
    Sheath above | 
  
    | Beadhead | 1/8 Brass or Silver Bead | 
  
    | Tying
    Instructions 1. Properly place hook in vise. Elevate hook eye slightly above horizontal to compensate
    for hook bending downward during tying operations.
 2. Apply thread behind the hook eye and wrap tightly back to the bend of
    the hook. Cut off excess thread.  3. Tie in a full piece of white spooled Antron.
    Comb out a small section of the Antron with a dubbing needle before ttie in so that it
    will spread slightly when tied in a later sequence.  4. Tie in three strands of Peacock Herl and a piece
    of fine green wire at the bend of the hook. Arrange the Peacock Herl so the long fibers
    will point outward when wrapped. Wrap the Peacock Herl to the 2/3 hook shank position and
    cut off the excess herl. Wrap about four or five wraps of fine green wire up to the thread
    position and cut off the excess.  5. Tie in a small Partridge feather or mottled Hen
    Saddle feather by the tip at the 2/3 hood shank position and wrap a maximum of two wraps
    as a collar. Clip off the excess. Cut out the center of the hackle collar that protruds on
    top of the hood. Pull the Antron yarn that was initially tied in at the bend of the hook
    overtop the body as a sheath, tie off and cutt off the excess. Partridge hackle purchased
    in packages is seldom small enough for this type fly as the smaller hackle is removed for
    commercial tying purposes. The best bet is to purchase a full partridge skin or a mottled
    hen saddle which is much cheaper.  6. Tie in about half a thickness of the Antron yarn
    on top of the fly as a downwing. The length of the downwing should be the length of the
    hook. Clip off the excess. Whip finish the head area, clip off tying thread in preparation
    for installing the beadhead.  7. Place a drop of Zap-A-Gap CA+ directly on the
    hook eye. Slip a 1/8" bead (large drilled out opening facing toward bend of hook) and
    tap lightly on top of bead so that it makes contact with the hook. Take note that the
    Zap-A-Gap is sucked inside the bead when it is slipped over the hook eye. Placing the
    Zap-A-Gap on the hook eye prevents it from absorbing into the body material before the
    bead is installed. Also note that the bead comletely covers the threaded eye area which
    results in a much neater fly. Place a needle tip into the hook eye for a few seconds to
    remove any Zap-A-Gap that may have lingered at this spot.  Note. If placing the bead over the hook eye as
    described, it will be necessary to redrill the existing hole in the bead with a #53 wire
    drill or adjust the drill size accordingly for larger or smaller hooks. Of all the methods
    I have encountered for placing a bead on the hook, the method described here is the one
    that I have developed and prefer.  |