They are called the Cuna. They are one of the more isolated tribes of Central America, a closed society since they fled from the Conquistadores four hundred years ago. They are unique in many ways, but what has captured the interest of the rest of the world is the fact that they make molas.



This is a hand-stitched cloth panel about sixteen inches across. detail is created by cutting away one layer of a stack of cloth pieces reveal the color of the layer beneath The edges of each cut are rolled and meticulously stitched down. The technique is called Reverse Applique. Almost all of the women of the tribe make molas The word mola in the Cuna language means "woman's clothing."



This is the wife of an island chief, dressed in the height of Cuna fashion. Her blouse consists of two of these spectacular panels, fastened together by a yoke of some brightly printed cloth. She is sure to have made it herself. The mola is not just a ceremonial garb made by a specialist and taken out to wear once every few months



Molas are standard attire and Cuna women are certainly no different from the rest of us in that they love to have something new and fancy to wear



For most of them, mola making is a constant pursuit all of their lives. They love the chance to show off a new one. I warn you, it happens to collectors too -- It's always a delight to be able to show your friends a new find.



The Cuna live on the archipelago of San Blas, a long chain of tiny islands which stretches along the Caribbean coast of Panama beginning about 30 miles southeast of the canal and ending about 165 miles toward Colombia.



There are 365 small tropical islands in the chain about 60 of which have villages or smaller communities. Some of the others have plantations of coconuts. Most are uninhabited. A long barrier reef protects them from heavy seas, and constant breezes keep them free of mosquitoes and such pests

The islands lie a few miles off the coast of Panama at one of the most remote places The jungle area on the isthmus there is called The Darien. It is the last remaining place on the PanAm highway between Anchorage and Tierra del Fuego where there is no road. It is a beautiful idyllic place.



The people live in thatched open sided huts with woven sides that roll up and down, huts packed very close together. They sleep in hammocks, and cook over a fire in a rock ringed firepit in the packed earth floor They are very communal about their living arrangements, and behave as a large family.



In order to keep fresh water, the Cuna must make trips every day to the coast to carry it from the many fresh streams. They also cultivate many plants on the coast and they hunt game in the coastal jungles This demands that they become expert sailors at a very young age It also makes a boat the most valuable thing a person can own.



The cayuco is a long dugout canoe made from a Colombian mahogany log. These logs are dug out and towed up the coast by Colombian traders, who trade them for coconuts. The Cuna then finish the boat by adding sails and a rudder. Some of the more affluent will put a small outboard motor on their cayucos. They are just great for running over to the coast you can see in the background.



The finished product is a worthy vessel. It is interesting that they don't seem to apply the skill of molamaking to sail-mending. The problem no doubt is the very clear-cut division of labor practiced by the Cuna, something we shall get to shortly.



The cayuco links the families and clans of the islands together, and links them to the coast from which they get most of their food and water They grow rice, bananas and plantains, mangoes, citrus fruits, papayas, and a variety of other plants.



Children become competent sailors at a very young age. The sea is where they will spend most of their time catching the many varieties of excellent fish, rock lobsters and crabs, all of which they enjoy.



They also eat birds. One reference says that the Cuna language identifies 58 varieties of birds.

Cuna by the way, is what they call their language. They call themselves Tule. which means "we the people." The Panamanians call them the San Blas Indians. Like Ann Parker, (from whose book many of these illustrations are taken) I prefer to call them Cuna, for its uniqueness. In the early 16th century, the islands were known as the Sambalees, and some historians believe that San Blas is a phonetic derivation of that.

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